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MILAN, June 21, (AP): By Monday’s fourth and final day of Milan Fashion Week menswear previews for next spring and summer, designers seemed to have understood the assignment. Looks appeared more weather appropriate than on the weekend, as soaring temperatures provided a reminder that warm-weather dressing can mean covered, but in a relaxed way that accommodates elegance and playfulness. Highlights from Monday’s shows:
Against the onslaught of streetwear and dressing down, Giorgio Armani is defending elegance in all seasons. The 87-year-old designer’s Spring-Summer 2023 collection mixes classics with more unusual iterations, as the fashion world demands. Proffering elegance is increasingly a lonely job. “I don’t know when we will feel the loss of the man who moves through life with this refinement,’’ the designer said after the show. For his main line, Armani focused on casual, relaxed suits, for day or evening. There was movement in the loose trousers and jackets, but also in the graphic repeating prints that create the effect of waves. Print on print looks are insistently modern. “It is true that it is nice to see a man dressed well in a suit. But it is also nice to see evolution of fashion. Bring on the basics, I have always done them in my life. It is also true that (the market) demands novelty,’’ Armani said. On that front, Armani created tunic-length tops. Jackets and shirts have a sheen rarely seen in menswear. A well-tied foulard substitutes a shirt under an open jacket. A scarf creates a sweeping effect on top of a white suit.
Alessandro Michele teamed up with Harry Styles for a between-season collection that infuses tailoring with adolescent freedom. The collection is titled “HaHaHa,” tapping a sense of joy and also the expression of their initials: Harry and Alessandro. “In truth it was easier for him to play with me to create clothes, than for me to sing with him,’’ Michele joked with reporters at a preview for the collection inside a Milan vintage store. Harry Styles was just embarking on his solo career when Michele exploded into the fashion world proposing what was a new era of gender-fl uid dressing, looks that immediately appealed to Styles. Michele said the singer incorporated one of his debut pieces as Gucci creative director into his wardrobe as he was breaking out from “One Direction.” The relationship has grown over the years and takes fl ight in frequent exchanges of fashion inspiration over WhatsApp
invited the fashion crowd for a sunset runway show on top of its factory in the Piedmont region, overlooking a vast natural park owned by the Zegna family and underlining the tight supply chain control at the family-run company. The collection was imbued by lightness, in shape and in materials. Forms were essential, borderline minimalist, ranging from sports suits with trousers or Bermuda shorts to tunics with inventive twists or intarsia knitwear recalling impressionist landscapes. Finer knitwear was near transparent, with hints of sheen that caught the slants of light. Bags include macrame cross body bags. The color palette of tobacco, maroon, coffee with light blue and powder rose connected to the earth.