Looser, relaxed looks – Prada treks globe

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MILAN, June 20, (AP): Strict tailoring is giving way to looser, relaxed looks during the second day of menswear previews for next spring and summer on Sunday during Milan Fashion Week. The prevalent silhouette was boxy on top with athletic cut trousers as designers courted the Millennial audience, eager to mix comfort with style. Shoes were comfortable sandals with grip soles and bags were travel-ready. Androgyny remained a theme as designers presented looks meant to be worn by men and women — some more easily than others. Vivienne Westwood’s collection contained equal parts looks for men and women, while Prada continued her tradition of mixing in women’s looks with the menswear. Ermanno Scervino, who opted for a presentation instead of a runway show, said he would mix his men’s and women’s collections during the September fashion week. Some highlights from Sunday’s shows:

Prada

The Prada man dresses for comfort on his long global trek, but packs for a night out. The focal point of the collection was active wear: drawstring active trousers or athletic leggings with contrast stitching for him, or walking skirts with corresponding drawstring hems for her. Colorfully strapped sandals ensure sure-footedness, while big backpacks adorned with drinking flasks and dress shoes give the air of adventure and self-sufficiency. The must-have garment for next season: technical raincoats with satellite images of the Earth, pretty florals or a whimsical traveler’s print. The designer said backstage that while recent collections were looks back in time, this one is set firmly in the now — with all its question marks. “The past is over. I want to take care of the present,” she said. “The goal is to share with other people, other cultures, other mentalities.” “In case you want to have an evening out. That was fun,” she said.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood opened her show with a video message to the British prime minister urging him to allow WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange to leave the Ecuadorian embassy in London without the threat of arrest. “Whatever you do, you are not going to stop him from telling the truth,” the designer intoned. The ever-political Westwood continues to push the envelope also in her runway collections. The designer who came up in the punk era champions androgyny with thin knit dresses that can function as tunics as well as Arab-inspired dresses. The collection recalled some of rock ‘n’ roll’s greats, from Jimi Hendrix with fringe on jackets and military embellishments to Marianne Faithful with fishnet details and toga dresses and Brian Jones overdone velvet jackets. Many of her looks were emblazoned with IOU, which wasn’t completely obvious but given Westwood’s environmental leanings is likely a reference to the debt we owe the planet.

Ermanno Scervino Ermanno

Scervino’s menswear collection for spring-summer 2017 is intensely personal. Cat-eye motifs on sweaters were inspired by his beloved country cat, Mimmo. And the elegant silhouette with sporty touches recalls his own youthful wardrobe. “When I was 18 years old, I lived in New York, and I dressed like this,” the designer said during a walkthrough of the collection in his Milan showroom. The collection contrasts materials like pajama prints and gobelin florals in tailored jackets with striped sweaters and sweat pants. Scervino indicated the moccasins, a long-time favorite of his.

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