D&G jazz things up – Fashion cacophony

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MILAN, June 19, (AP): Nothing stays the same in fashion, but this is over the top.

This season, a huge number of Milan brands are managing transitions in creative and business leadership, and using the shift to experiment with the way they communicate with their public.

That means some fashion houses, including Ermenegildo Zegna and Roberto Cavalli, have opted for a menswear calendar break, while others have forsaken the choreography of runway shows for more personal presentations, where the designers can discuss their creations and materials more in depth. That includes Ermanno Scervino and Bottega Veneta.

And no few are in creative transition, presenting on the strength of their design team and without a headline stylist or creative presence, namely Salvatore Ferragamo, Canali, Tod’s and Calvin Klein. Versace introduced a new CEO.

But for those reveling in the show, there was no shortage of spectacle on Day One of Milan Fashion Week, with a jazz band performing live at Dolce & Gabbana while a short film by Bruce Weber and some never-before-heard Prince soundtracks were unveiled at Versace.

Here are some highlights from Saturday’s menswear previews for spring-summer 2017:

Summer Jazz Festival

Dolce & Gabbana invited the fashion crowd to a Sicilian jazz festival with echoes of New Orleans and the Copa Cabana resounding along the checkerboard runway.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s prolific collection for next spring and summer was a carefully arranged cacophony, like jazz itself. The live soundtrack to the runway show was provided by the New York jazz band The Hot Sardines.

Among the pleasingly discordant looks: A black-and-white ensemble featured a checked sweater worn over a floral print shirt and with striped pants.

Millennial Generation

Outside the Dolce & Gabbana theater, hundreds of screaming female fans waited to catch a glimpse of Internet star Cameron Dallas.

The 21-year-old Californian boasts 7.5 million followers on Twitter, 4.7 million on YouTube, 9.4 million on Vine and 13 million on Instagram. A representative sample made the trip to Milan, blocking traffic outside the Dolce & Gabbana venue.

Remembering Prince

Donatella Versace paid sweet tribute to Prince, capping her runway show with a black ruffle shirt.

The frilly gesture, referencing the artist’s Purple Rain costume, was in stark contrast to the rest of the collection, which was otherwise defined by a relaxed silhouette more befitting an essential nomad than the ostentatious performer.

The collection featured muscle-revealing silk knitwear worn under long, trailing overcoats. Button-down shirts were worn long like tunics, and sweaters wrapped androgynously at the waist. Single-breasted suit jackets were hastily buttoned over loose trousers with an elasticized cuff.

Brand First

Canali has bidden farewell to its creative consultant of two years, Andrea Pompilio, putting the collection into the hands of an in-house team while it considers its next creative move.

Elisabetta Canali called the experience with Pompilio “very positive,” but said “we don’t want to link to someone specific. I think our DNA is very important.”

Dsquared2 Loves Rock ’N Roll

Rockers, Canada’s designing twins Dean and Dan Caten, the forces behind the DSquared2 label, have the footwear for you: Prince-worthy high heeled boots available in any combination of sequins and glitter.

The ever-so glam boot was paired with jeans cropped perfectly to meet the leather upper mid-calf.

Neapolitan Luxury

In a twist, youthful customers come to the luxury Neapolitan brand Kiton for tailored looks while its older clients are looking for leisure wear.

Take the brand’s fine knit jogging suits, meant for the ultimate jet-setters.

“Our clients wear this above all when riding in their private jets,” CEO Antonio De Matteis said on a walk-through of the new collection during Milan Fashion Week.

Kiton won’t reveal its client list, but De Matteis says it is more likely to include Silicon Valley entrepreneurs than bellicose billionaires.

Suits for the next warm weather season were kept relaxed for young clients, nearly deconstructed, and in soft fabrics. Colors feature blues to recall the sea by Naples.

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